Asher on Aspen: Yellowstone chronicles
Courtesy photo
As the dust settled around our arrival, a vision straight out of a classic Western movie unfolded before us. John Allen, a jovial cowboy, tipped his hat with a grin that stretched wider than the Montana sky, welcoming us with open arms to Lone Mountain Ranch in Big Sky, Montana.
We had sought out an escape into the wilderness, but what awaited us was a journey through rugged landscapes, luxurious cabins, and the geothermal wonders of Yellowstone National Park.
Nestled in the heart of Montana’s Big Sky, the ranch is a cowboy haven that epitomizes the rugged charm of the American West. This historic ranch, celebrating over a century of existence, stands as a testament to a bygone era, offering a retreat that blends Western roots with contemporary comforts. The ranch boasts a collection of cozy cabins, each a rustic sanctuary adorned with wood-burning stoves and charming details like turntables with a curated selection of records. The absence of televisions only deepened our experience and our connection with nature.
Our abode for this unforgettable trip was the historic B-K cabin, built in 1936. It stands as a luxurious lodge with two private suites featuring king-sized beds and en-suite bathrooms as well as a bunk room with four additional beds. The cabin’s centerpiece was its expansive open living area, complete with an oversized fireplace and a generously sized dining table. From our private wrap-around porch, we reveled in picturesque views of the North Fork Creek while breathing in the fresh mountain air.
Beyond the accommodations, Lone Mountain Ranch is known for its on-site activities like horseback riding, year-round fly fishing, and exclusive tours of nearby Yellowstone National Park led by expert naturalists.
Our journey commenced on a tranquil fall Sunday evening. I was traveling from Jackson Hole with my friend and colleague, Jamie. We decided to celebrate our arrival with a visit to the on-site restaurant called Horn & Cantle. There, we savored an exquisite six-course dinner, impeccably paired with wines from Chenoweth Wines based in Sonoma County. Following the lavish meal, we made our way to the neighboring saloon, where we savored nightcaps and struck up camaraderie with fellow wanderers.
The following day brought a much-anticipated exploration of Yellowstone National Park. With the ranch’s private tour, the daunting task of navigation, route planning, and locating the best spots to visit was no longer a worry. This was both Jamie’s and my maiden voyage into the park, and we were grateful to have a naturalist guide who was a bona fide expert. Yellowstone, a national treasure founded in 1872 during the presidency of Ulysses S. Grant, boasts over 600 geysers — more than half the world’s total — and over 10,000 thermal features, which left us in awe.
Our first stop was the Lower Geyser Basin, a captivating stroll along the Fountain Paint Pots Nature Trail. Here, bubbling mud pots played a percussion of gurgling rhythms, while hissing steam vents punctuated the air with an eerie symphony. It wasn’t like anything I had ever seen before. The real stars of the show, the Fountain Paint Pots, burst forth with mineral-rich mud, creating ever-changing, splattering works of art. As we traversed the boardwalk, the pungent scent of sulfur hung in the air.
From there, we ventured further to the mesmerizing Grand Prismatic Spring. Its vibrant, almost otherworldly colors created a scene that felt like it was plucked from the pages of a science fiction novel. This astonishing hot spring, which ranks as one of the largest in the world, boasts hues ranging from deep sapphire blues to fiery oranges, all framed by rich emerald greens. As steam rose gracefully from its depths, it was as if we were gazing into the Earth’s very soul.
Lunchtime led us to the iconic Old Faithful, a natural wonder that erupts like clockwork approximately every ninety minutes. We arrived just in time to witness the breathtaking spectacle, surrounded by an eager crowd of onlookers. Seated on the ground, we unwrapped our ranch-provided packed lunches and watched in wonder as Old Faithful performed its dazzling dance. It was a moment of pure, unadulterated awe.
Our grand tour culminated with a visit to The Grand Canyon of Yellowstone, known locally as Artist Point. As we traversed Hayden Valley heading toward our final stop, we encountered a bison herd that brought traffic to a standstill. It was quite the phenomenon to watch the herd cross the road so very close to our car. Artist Point revealed waterfalls, cascading with a deafening roar into the depths of the canyon, casting rainbows amidst the mist. As we stood there in awe, we couldn’t help but feel a profound sense of reverence for the delicate, yet dynamic, balance of beauty and raw, geologic power.
As the sun dipped below the rugged Montana horizon, we found ourselves gathered around the campfire for our last night at Lone Mountain Ranch. The crackling flames seemed to whisper the tales of generations past, connecting us to the timeless spirit of this land. It was a fitting finale to a day filled with wonder and discovery in the heart of Yellowstone.
And as I sat there, beneath the star-studded canopy of Big Sky, I couldn’t help but reflect on the allure of this storied land. With its rich history and warm hospitality, I am already dreaming of my next visit to this ranch.
Burlingame III likely not for the dogs
The homeowner association at the newest phase of affordable housing development Burlingame Ranch is in its fledgling stage, at just a month or so of independent governance.
