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The traditional Egyptian breakfast of dried fava beans is also the national dish, eaten at all times of the day, in the fields, in village mud-houses, and in the cities. Restaurants serve it as a mezze, and it is sold in the streets. Vendors put the beans in large, round, narrow-necked vessels, which they bury through the night in the dying embers of the public baths. Ful medames is pre-Ottoman and pre-Islamic. It is probably as old as the Pharaohs. According to an Arab saying: “Beans have satisfied even the Pharaohs.” Egyptians gleefully tell you that the little brown beans have been found in pharaonic tombs and have been made to germinate. There are fields of them, and promotional explanations on fake papyrus by the Ministry of Agriculture. Of course, they could have been put there by tomb robbers. There are many types of dried fava beans—small, middle-sized, and large, all of which can be used—and there are very good-quality canned ones. Most expatriates are happy with canned ones, which they improve on with flavorings and trimmings. These need to be turned into a pan with their juice and cooked for 15 minutes.

Ingredients

Makes 6 servings

2 cups small Egyptian fava beans (ful medames), soaked overnight (and left unpeeled)
Salt
1/3 cup chopped flat-leaf parsley
Extra-virgin olive oil
3 lemons, quartered
Salt and pepper
4–6 cloves garlic, crushed
Chili-pepper flakes
Cumin

Preparation

  1. Step 1

    As the cooking time varies depending on the quality and age of the beans, it is good to cook them in advance and to reheat them when you are ready to serve. Cook the drained beans in a fresh portion of unsalted water in a large saucepan with the lid on until tender, adding water to keep them covered, and salt when the beans have softened. They take 2–2 1/2 hours of gentle simmering. When the beans are soft, let the liquid reduce. It is usual to take out a ladle or two of the beans and to mash them with some of the cooking liquid, then stir this back into the beans. This is to thicken the sauce.

    Step 2

    Serve the beans in soup bowls sprinkled with chopped parsley and accompanied by Arab bread.

    Step 3

    Pass round the dressing ingredients for everyone to help themselves: a bottle of extra-virgin olive oil, the quartered lemons, salt and pepper, a little saucer with the crushed garlic, one with chili-pepper flakes, and one with ground cumin.

    Step 4

    The beans are eaten gently crushed with the fork, so that they absorb the dressing.

  2. Optional Garnishes

    Step 5

    Peel hard-boiled eggs—1 per person—to cut up in the bowl with the beans.

    Step 6

    Top the beans with a chopped cucumber-and-tomato salad and thinly sliced mild onions or scallions. Otherwise, pass round a good bunch of scallions and quartered tomatoes and cucumbers cut into sticks.

    Step 7

    Serve with tahina cream sauce (page 65) or salad (page 67), with pickles and sliced onions soaked in vinegar for 30 minutes.

    Step 8

    Another way of serving ful medames is smothered in a garlicky tomato sauce (see page 464).

    Step 9

    In Syria and Lebanon, they eat ful medames with yogurt or feta cheese, olives, and small cucumbers.

  3. Variations

    Step 10

    A traditional way of thickening the sauce is to throw a handful of red lentils (1/4 cup) into the water at the start of the cooking.

    Step 11

    In Iraq, large brown beans are used instead of the small Egyptian ones, in a dish called badkila, which is also sold for breakfast in the street.

Cover of Claudia Roden's The New Book of Middle Easter Food, featuring a blue filigree bowl filled with Meyer lemons and sprigs of mint.
Reprinted with permission from The New Book of Middle Eastern Food, copyright © 2000 by Claudia Roden, published by Knopf. Buy the full book on Amazon or Bookshop.
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  • like this recipe would like to make this recipe again

    • miroforidis.layla

    • Sydney,Australia

    • 12/1/2020

  • Epicurious Search RECIPES & MENUS EXPERT ADVICE INGREDIENTS HOLIDAYS & EVENTS COMMUNITY VIDEO EASTER My Recipes (-) Create a Recipe My Menus Create a Menu Settings Log Out FUL MEDAMES REVIEWS CLAUDIA RODEN APRIL 2009 THE NEW BOOK OF MIDDLE EASTERN FOOD 4/4 fork user rating REVIEWS (1) 100% MAKE IT AGAIN GO TO REVIEWS ful-medames.jpg Facebook Pinterest The traditional Egyptian breakfast of dried fava beans is also the national dish, eaten at all times of the day, in the fields, in village mud-houses, and in the cities. Restaurants serve it as a mezze, and it is sold in the streets. Vendors put the beans in large, round, narrow-necked vessels, which they bury through the night in the dying embers of the public baths. Ful medames is pre-Ottoman and pre-Islamic. It is probably as old as the Pharaohs. According to an Arab saying: “Beans have satisfied even the Pharaohs.” Egyptians gleefully tell you that the little brown beans have been found in pharaonic tombs and have been made to germinate. There are fields of them, and promotional explanations on fake papyrus by the Ministry of Agriculture. Of course, they could have been put there by tomb robbers. There are many types of dried fava beans—small, middle-sized, and large, all of which can be used—and there are very good-quality canned ones. Most expatriates are happy with canned ones, which they improve on with flavorings and trimmings. These need to be turned into a pan with their juice and cooked for 15 minutes. SHARE “FUL MEDAMES” ON FACEBOOKSHARE “FUL MEDAMES” ON TWITTERSHARE “FUL MEDAMES” ON PINTERESTSHARE “FUL MEDAMES” ON GOOGLE+EMAIL “FUL MEDAMES” SAVE RECIPE ADD TO MENU Write a review… REVIEWS This is an edit of my review thanks to my smart phone!! This is an awesome recipe. I live in Cairo and have tried this dish in a few places. The first was awful and the rest just OK. Then my son took a chance at what we in the states would call a hole in the wall; definitely not for the faint of heart! The result was the best Ful I could ever hope to eat. The only difference is that the tomatoes, onions, garlic and spices are added at various cooking times and they used cilantro instead of parseley. Since all of the recipes I have found use flat leaf, I'm guessing this was bought by mistake. The result produced an awesome dish. This recipe helped me to reproduce that flavor. This is also my favorite middle east cookbook. I have been using it for more than 40 yes! Just bought the new edition here in Cairo.😀

    • dianabjazzy

    • NEW JERSEY USA. NOW LIVING IN CAIRO

    • 4/8/2017

  • This is an awesome recipe. I love in Cairo and have tried this dish in a few places. The first was awful and the rest just OK. Then my don took a chance at what we in the states would call a hole in the wall; definitely not for the faint of heart! The result was the best Ful I could ever hope to eat. The only difference is that the tomatoes, onions, garlic and spices are added at various cooking times and they used cilantro instead of parseley. This recipe helped me to reproduce that flavor. This is also my favorite middle east cookbook. I have been using it for more than 40 yes! Just bought the new edition here in Cairo.😀

    • dianabjazzy

    • New Jersey USA. Now living in Cairo

    • 4/8/2017

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