Of Affections and Places: Banaue Rice Terraces, Philippines

Love at first sight. I never thought I would ever use such cliché in any speech or article, never thought it could truly express any sentiment accurately. But as I try to find the right words that could sum up my experience with Banaue (ba-na-weh), I realized that the much-used line essentially encompasses all the feelings I had from the moment I stepped out of the bus and into its overwhelming grandeur.

Like any other popular but unfamiliar place, Banaue used to be just another picture postcard for me; another Philippine tourist spot—a municipality in Ifugao (Ee-foo-gaw) Province located in the northern part of the country with its rice terraces to boast being inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List. But I guess to be actually near to something can sometimes, if not always, shatter your indifference and ultimately surprise you.

My encounter with Banaue happened when I took a trip last March to see the traditional houses of the Ifugao, the ethnic group that make up the majority of the province’s population, and at the same time, wanted to meet the locals. It was a long 9-hour bus trip from Manila, the country’s capital, but the moment we reached our destination, all the back aches and sleeplessness were wiped away by the greetings of the cold but subtle wind of the Cordillera (cor-deel,-yeh-ra) mountains and the waving of the million rice crops bidding us welcome. As if it could be any more beautiful, the rising sun was one with them and it must have been at that swift passing moment when I utterly fell in love with the place.

The close-up view to the natural beauty of the rice terraces was nothing short of breathtaking. It was a greater-than-life sculpture filled with green whiskers sprouting from every corner of the place. Commonly known as the Eighth Wonder of the World, the Banaue Rice Terraces were carved along the contours of the mountains of Ifugao by its indigenous people some 2,000 years ago. It is located about 5,000 feet above sea level and is believed to be created by hand, just like canvass, since there were no mechanical equipment then. And if the steps were put end to end, it is said that it would encircle half of the globe. If, however, one would choose to visit during the harvest season, locals said one would be lucky to see the terraces turn to gold. Surrounded by the vast etches, I remember feeling small and humbled by the opportunity to bear witness to the hard labor, resourcefulness, and ingenuity of my ancestors.

The experience became more interesting when we set foot on our accommodation, just a 20-minute ride away from the bus terminal. Our inn was an authentic hundred-year old Ifugao house or fale, passed on from generations to generations; our dining and living area had the live painting of the terraces for a view; and our inn keepers and tour guides were Ifugaos themselves who were now the heirs to such great treasure.

The fale was a small room sitting on four sturdy hand-hewn wood posts with a pyramidal roof made out of thatch or cogon. It gave us a cool shade during the day and warmth during the cold and rainy nights. It also served as mini museums where baskets, images of their gods like the Bulul (rice god), and other magic paraphernalia were hung on walls or stacked in shelves representing not only the supernatural beliefs of Ifugaos but also the social status of the family that once lived there. From the house to all the hand-made and carved ornaments, the fales reflected the quality of labor of Ifugao hands in so many ways. And even a hundred years after, these ornaments are still well preserved, always ready to tell the stories of their creators. 

Our mornings on the other hand, consisted of eating bread and sipping both coffee and all that Banaue has to offer us. At night, we would sit under the house and would chew on what the locals call moma or nga nga, consisting of betel nuts, betel leaf and lime powder, which gives off a strong bite that produces a red stain in the mouth. I think I may have never come to like it but I always thought it was an interesting activity.

We also took long walks to the country side and occasionally passed Ifugao elders still wearing their vibrant traditional costumes. In some ways, however, modernization has also caught up on that side of the world where younger generations dress and live like their contemporaries in the cities, and people no longer live in huts but in concrete houses. However, it’s a humbling experience to witness that there are still a number of areas that hold what’s left of what was, thousands of years ago. 

I stayed in Banaue for only a few days but it was enough to fall in love with the place over and over again. For the very first time, it wasn’t the people who spoke for the place. It was the place itself that welcomed me, opened itself up, and took me in as its long-awaited visitor, the same way it has been to thousands of guests who have treaded its paths before. 

How to get there:

There are many flights to Manila, Philippines but if you live in California, there are direct flights via Philippine Airlines. If you’re coming from other states, United, Delta and other international airlines fly to Manila and normally have stops in Japan or Korea. 

From Manila to Banaue:

Via Florida Bus Line or Victory Liner- Manila to Banaue via North Luzon Expressway

• Bus Fare: $11 - $15

Another alternative is to rent a car and hire a driver. You can either bring food or ask your local hosts to cook for you. It is best to contact your Travel Agent to help you with information on bus schedules, tickets, accommodations and car rentals.