Fashion is increasingly going genderless, and it’s about time. On the runways, labels such as Givenchy, Gucci and Balenciaga have blended their menswear and womenswear collections into one – showcasing looks that can move fluidly between the two – and fewer retailers are thinking of their seasonal buys from a gendered perspective as a result. All the while, stars like Lil Nas X and Harry Styles are stepping out wearing skirts and heels, and Kim Kardashian is wearing Balenciaga menswear. It’s a refreshing change of pace. And now, the movement is even permeating into the lingerie and intimates categories – a realm of fashion that has been notoriously gendered.
A new crop of brands are designing pieces that can be worn by any and all genders. Traditionally, it’s no surprise that lingerie labels have been tailored to women, but that’s slowly changing. Designer Louis Dorantes debuted the genderless lingerie brand LEAK NYC in 2020, and it includes mesh bodysuits with cut-outs, snake thongs and harnesses for all. The designs, which spotlight and enhance the figure, aim “to deconstruct the binary of masculine and feminine expression.”
On a larger scale, Savage X Fenty’s past few shows have increasingly blurred the lines of gender with its lingerie assortment as well – pushing forward the idea that sexy, revealing designs for the bedroom can be rocked by just about anyone. (The brand’s website, however, does still divide its products by traditional menswear and womenswear categories.)
A number of intimate brands are also rethinking simpler, everyday basics – like underwear or boxer briefs – and vamping their designs to fit a range of bodies, too. With its Unmentionables collection, Boy Smells released bralettes and briefs in a wide array of colours; the latter style is available with both pouch-front and flat-front designs, depending on one’s body type or preference.
TomboyX’s Gender Euphoria collection includes compression bra tops and tucking bottoms – in sizes from 3XS to 4X – that offer intimate options to anyone on the gender spectrum. (Chest binders have been popularly worn by trans or gender-noncomforming folks; TomboyX aims to offer a more comfortable alternative.)
The new brand Pyramid Seven, meanwhile, designs underwear “for periods, not gender.” Founder and CEO Zipporah Jarmon wanted a line of underwear for people who mensturate that don’t identify as women, or typically wear feminine attire. “Think of it like this: Do you menstruate? Do you wear boxer briefs? Then this product is for you,” Jarmon tells Vogue. “Our mission is to provide gender-affirming underwear to menstruators, while giving a voice to underrepresented communities, and broadening the conversation on menstruation.”
Lucky Skivvies CEO Kadesha Drayton also founded their intimates brand with the intention of rethinking boxers. “I created Lucky Skivvies because of the lack of options made to fit my body. The designs were mostly made to fit a cis male’s body, with a gap of extra fabric in the pouch area that I did not find flattering,” says Drayton. They came up with a more inclusive, stretchy design that supports a wide array of wearers, no matter how they identify. “The front area is intentionally designed with a flat pouch to give a much flattering look,” says Drayton, who also has plans to release loungewear pieces as well. “A genderless approach will be taken when creating all items for our brand’s catalogues.”
Given intimate brands are now not only using models of all genders and sizes in their visuals, but also changing their actual design processes, it’s safe to say the genderless movement is continuing to have an impact in all arenas of fashion. For many involved, the mission is quite simple – to make sure someone’s wardrobe can feel authentically themselves at all times, from underwear to outerwear. “I want people to feel connected to the products we offer,” says Drayton, “because they purchased something that makes them feel closer to their real selves.”
