Instructions for Lutterloh System®

The golden Rule 

® 

since 1935 

The ideal 

Do-it-yourself 

Pattern making method 

32079841_Goldener_Schnitt_GB_HG_hellgrau.indd 1 13.04.17 14:59

Lutterloh System ® P.O. Box 3149 D-88113 Lindau / Germany 

% 49-(0)83 82/78515 FaX 49-(0)83 82/74949 www.lutterloh-system.de 

Revised Edition 

© Copyright MCMLXXXVII, MMXV, MMXVI, MMXVII 

by Modeverlag Lutterloh 

All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval 

system, or transmitted, in any form of by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying 

or otherwise, without the prior written permission of the publisher. 

modeverlag Lutterloh, P.O. Box 3149, 88113 Lindau, Germany 

Printed in Germany 


The golden Rule 

Making fashionable, professional looking clothing, 

re quires complete control over fabric, style and fit. 

Choosing and making your own pattern, is the ideal 

way to create your individual style and achieve 

consistently proper fitting garments. The Lutterloh 

Pattern System is the perfect solution for today’s 

busy sewer. 

Fashion conscious sewers from around the world 

have been using the Lutterloh method for decades, 

beginners and professionals alike. This system is 

quick and easy to learn. Astonishingly simple, you 

need only two measurements to make a perfect 

fitting pattern every time. 

Enjoy the pattern collection and a 

lifetime of sewing pleasure! 

„Sewing for yourself is economical and fulfilling, 

when you create clothes that fit well.“ 


1. Bust measurement 

Use the end of the metric tape. Lift the tape over the 

shoulder blades, under the arms and over the fullest 

part of the bust. 

This measurement is used to enlarge all pattern parts 

above and including the waist, ie: collar, necklines, 

sleeves, front and back upper bodice pieces. 


2. Hip measurement 

Take the widest measurement between the waist and 

knees, this is your hip measurement. 

This measurement is used to enlarge all pattern parts 

below the waist. 

For skirts, trousers and shorts you only need the hip 

measurement. 


3. Placing diagram on paper 

Place a piece of pattern making paper on the table. 

Fasten the chosen pattern onto the paper, by applying 

scotch tape at two corners. 

The pattern diagram is located on the reverse side of 

the illustrated design. 

All pattern pieces are marked with symbols, ie: A = front, 

B = back, etc. All symbols are located on the Symbols 

Page at the end of this instruction section. 

You can reinforce the cross with adhesive tape so that 

the pattern design doesn’t tear. 


4. Inserting the pin into the scale 

The sizing scale is attached to one end on the metric 

tape. On the scale are two rows of numbers, red and 

black, ranging from 50 to 140 cm. These numbers 

represent the bust or hip measurements. Every number 

has a line with a small hole. Push the special pin through 

the hole that denotes your bust or hip measurement. 

Should you measure an odd number go to the next 

higher even number on the sizing scale. 

The differently colored numbers are simply for the 

purpose of clarity and have no other meaning. 


5. Pinning the scale onto the pattern 

Carefully push the pin and scale into the center of the 

cross point. 

Every pattern has a cross point. In some cases the cross 

is outside the pattern. An arrow on the cross points 

toward the pattern to which the cross belongs. In some 

patterns the cross looks like an X so that it can be 

recognized easier. 

It is advisable to place a protective backing under the 

spot where you stick the pin, to avoid damage to your 

table. 


6. Making dots 

The tape rotates freely in any direction. Align the edge 

of the sizing scale to any selected line radiating from 

the pattern. Extend the measuring tape (in the same 

direction). Match the cm number on the pattern, ie: 19. 5 

and draw a dot (next to 19 1 / 2 on the extended tape). 

The dots are made on the same side of the tape, where 

the line and number is shown on the pattern diagram. 

If a line is not connected with the dot, use the line to 

line up the scale and not the dot. 

Always hold the measuring tape straight when you line 

up the scale to obtain the correct angle. 


7. Completing all dots 

Using the bust measurement, make all dots on the 

patterns above and including the waist. 

Change the pin to the hip measurement and draw all 

dots below the waist. 

In case that there are more numbers on one line you 

need to make more dots on your pattern paper. 


8. Connecting the dots 

If a dot is out of line, re-align the dot, according to the 

pattern diagram. 

Connect all dots with our special curves. Draw straight 

lines first, using the straight edge of the ruler, and use 

curved section to draw armholes, necklines, hip curves etc. 

After all dots are connected, transfer all symbols from 

the pattern diagram onto your own pattern, ie: arrow 

for straight of grain. 

Remove the pattern diagram and mark the pin hole. 

This is where the pattern is adjusted for short-waisted 

and long-waisted bodies. 


9. Cutting the paper pattern and transferring 

onto the material 

Cut out the paper pattern. The finished pattern now 

corresponds to your measurements. 

You can adjust the length to suit your individual taste. 

Pin the waist dart, according to the shape and size of 

your figure. 

Place the pattern on the fabric and outline with chalk. 

Please note: 

Always check pattern for correct fit, before cutting 

the fabric! 


10. Cutting the material 

The finished paper pattern does not include seam and 

hem allowance. 

Allow approx. 1–2 cm for seams and 5–7 cm for hems. 

The same pattern is used to make facings, linings and 

undercollars. 

The straight of the grain usually runs parallel to center 

front and center back or at a right angle to the waist line. 


The Lutterloh System ® is based on the principal of the 

“Golden Rule”. 

The human body is in perfect mathematical proportion 

within itself. 

H = full length of body 

1/2 H = upper part of body 

1/4 H = length of leg from ankle to knee and length from chin to navel 

1/6 H = length of foot 

1/8 H = length of head from crown to bottom of chin 

1/10 H = height of face – also length of hand 

1/12 H = width of face 

Man is the 

universal measure 

of all things. 

The forearm, measured from the elbow to the wrist, 

corresponds with the length of the foot. 

The length of the hand is the same as the length of the 

face. 

The body height is eight times the length of the head. 

The span of laterally outstretched arms, measured from 

finger-tip to finger-tip, is equal to the height of the body. 


Fabric requirements 

For every model the fabric allowance has been calculated 

for a 94 cm (37”) bust and a 100 cm (40”) hip measurement. 

To get the exact amount you need, group all 

pattern pieces onto folded fabric, in the most economical 

fashion. Pattern pieces with a broken line are placed on 

the fabric fold. Watch the straight of the grain, and 

remember to add seam and hem allowances. Before 

you sew the pattern pieces together make note of the 

alphabetic order of the small letters (a to a, b to b, etc). 

Fashion supplements and yearly subscriptions 

Certainly you want to be kept up-to-date with the latest 

fashions in the future. Our quarterly-published fashion 

supplement gives you this opportunity. In each of these 

booklets you will find 40 new designs and corresponding 

Lutterloh patterns. A yearly subscription includes 

4 supplements. These seasonal booklets appear in the 

middle of February, May, August and November. 

Special editions and XXL fashion edition 

We also offer special editions with patterns for children, 

men and classic fashion. 

Our XXL edition includes a tape measure of 180 cm 

(71”) length with a special blue sizing scale. This can 

only be used with the blue patterns that are included 

in the XXL edition. 


Symbols Page 

The pattern making manual is published in 14 languages. The following table 

provides letters and symbols which you will find on the model- and pattern pages. 

A = front 

B = back 

C = side 

D = skirt 

E = sleeve 

F = cuff 

G = collar 

H = belt or waistband 

K = pocket 

L = yoke 

M = coat 

N = bow 

O = pleated part 

P = pullover 

R = inset 

S = trimmings 

T = flounce 

U = jabot 

Y = pocket flap 

Z = trousers 

2 x = two times 

1 inch = 2.54 centimeters 

= straight of grain 

= fold (no seam) 

= cutting line ✂ 

= gather 

= top stitch 

= elastic 

= facing 

= zipper 

AA = cape 

BB = tie 

CC = loose part 

DD = ties 

EE = lapel 

FF = hood 

GG = basic pattern 

HH = pleat 

HM = center back 

LL = buttonhole panel 

MM = trim or lace 

NN = blouse 

OO = shoulder strap 

PP = clasp 

RR = ruffles, frills 

SS = bolero 

ST = facings 

TT = peplum 

UU = jacket 

VM = center front 

VV = dress 

WW = waistcoat 

ca. = approximately 

li = left part 

re = right part 

v = front (sleeve) 

= press stud 

= hook and eye 

A to A = sewing sequence 

B to B 

B = 90° angle 

= especially suitable 

for very slim figures 

= may be knitted 

or stretch-fabric 

= especially suitable 

for fuller figures 

= maternity wear 

= contrasting colour

Instructions for Lutterloh System®

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